adjustment on the engine mount - Components List
Components Engine right side - Power and pinion
motor output pinion. Secondary transmission
inserting the key in the secondary output shaft of the change and fit the motor output gear (14 teeth of origin).
We set up the lock washer ...
.. and threading and tightening the nut (left hand thread).
Once tight, bend the plate washer to hold it.
Mount Ignition
The first step is to put the stator in the housing ...
... tightening the three screws. If we set dismantle its relative position to ride him again the same, although being an ignition system switches, mandatory change to the on again (a slight variation in the opening distance of the points we will vary the point forward).
Fit key and present the rotor ...
... by the aperture setting of platinum (these have to be to 0.4 mm at its maximum aperture).
We check the spark advance (there is a separate post about it) ...
... and when well-tuned grower put the washer and tighten the rotor retaining nut.
right engine cover
Before installing the engine cover, place a plastic or rubber tubing to protect the selector shaft from rubbing the chain when the bike is running. A piece of hose will do.
In fact, the Impala adjusting the chain tension is especially important. If not properly tightened, accelerating the bottom of the chain is loose and rocks, beating and scraping both the gear selector shaft and in the bottom of the rear swingarm pivot. It is not uncommon to see impalas wherein the axis of tilt is "eaten" and in some cases it has taken so much metal that is pierced. In any case, it is because of a slack chain and to a lesser extent, overly soft suspension.
We set the centering bushings top ...
... and put it on their property through the launch axis and the gear selector.
We put the washer, washers and lock nut, and tighten with a Phillips screwdriver.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Smithfields Bbq Sandwich
right side seals and bearings
Listing seals and bearings mounted Impala Sport. Maybe in some units vary their actions, especially in what refers to the axis of the crankshaft, as there are series mounted 20mm axle instead of 25mm in diameter.
In any case, needless to say, are mounted to the same extent and characteristics have been obtained removal.
BEARINGS Bearings Motor
crankcase left (clutch side)
primary shaft (clutch shaft) ref. 20/47/14 6204 measures
Secondary axis (output pinion shaft motor) ref. 15/35/11 6202
measures crankcase right side (on)
primary shaft (clutch shaft) ref. 7202 action 15/35/11 (angular contact ball bearing)
Secondary axis (output pinion shaft motor) ref. 17/47/14 6303
measures Crankshaft Right and left
2 x ref. 6205-C3
25/52/15 (Note: in narrow neck crank bearings are ref. 6304-C3 20/52/15)
clutch bearing clutch bell inside ref. 3203 action 17/40/17, 5 (double ball)
Rolling Wheels Rear sprocket
ref. 20/47/14 6204 shielded measures (the same as the motor shaft of the clutch side)
front and rear bushings 4 x ref. 17/40/12 6203
measures
Column address Loose Ball Bearings
45 balls of 3 / 16 "
SEALS
Seals Motor gearbox main shaft crankcase left (clutch side) measures 1 x 20/30 / 7
left crankcase axis selector drum (clutch side) 1 x measures 22/32/7
Secondary axis crankcase change right side (on) 1 x axis measures 17/28/7
start right crankcase (side on) 1 x measures 17/28/7
selector shaft crankcase right side (on) 1 x measures 15/24/7
Crank shafts (left and right sides) 2 x measures 25/35/7 semicárteres
SCREWS O-ring 12 x 7.0 mm inner diameter x 1.5 mm thick
clutch lever axis (top left motor ) 1 x measures 14/20/6
seals seals
wheels wheel hub 4 x measures 23/40/10
Listing seals and bearings mounted Impala Sport. Maybe in some units vary their actions, especially in what refers to the axis of the crankshaft, as there are series mounted 20mm axle instead of 25mm in diameter.
In any case, needless to say, are mounted to the same extent and characteristics have been obtained removal.
BEARINGS Bearings Motor
crankcase left (clutch side)
primary shaft (clutch shaft) ref. 20/47/14 6204 measures
Secondary axis (output pinion shaft motor) ref. 15/35/11 6202
measures crankcase right side (on)
primary shaft (clutch shaft) ref. 7202 action 15/35/11 (angular contact ball bearing)
Secondary axis (output pinion shaft motor) ref. 17/47/14 6303
measures Crankshaft Right and left
2 x ref. 6205-C3
25/52/15 (Note: in narrow neck crank bearings are ref. 6304-C3 20/52/15)
clutch bearing clutch bell inside ref. 3203 action 17/40/17, 5 (double ball)
Rolling Wheels Rear sprocket
ref. 20/47/14 6204 shielded measures (the same as the motor shaft of the clutch side)
front and rear bushings 4 x ref. 17/40/12 6203
measures
Column address Loose Ball Bearings
45 balls of 3 / 16 "
SEALS
Seals Motor gearbox main shaft crankcase left (clutch side) measures 1 x 20/30 / 7
left crankcase axis selector drum (clutch side) 1 x measures 22/32/7
Secondary axis crankcase change right side (on) 1 x axis measures 17/28/7
start right crankcase (side on) 1 x measures 17/28/7
selector shaft crankcase right side (on) 1 x measures 15/24/7
Crank shafts (left and right sides) 2 x measures 25/35/7 semicárteres
SCREWS O-ring 12 x 7.0 mm inner diameter x 1.5 mm thick
clutch lever axis (top left motor ) 1 x measures 14/20/6
seals seals
wheels wheel hub 4 x measures 23/40/10
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Motor Mount - Mounting Components
speed selection
To begin to mount selector , we orientate the axis of the guide so that the offset of the tabs is in the position shown in the photo, that is, the tabs are slightly above the center of rotation.
We set up the panel assembly. Its function is to shrink the tabs inward as you turn the dial.
inserted the eccentric nut plate control (turning one or the other side of the nut relative position on the selector plate varies slightly) ...
... and its washer and retaining nut.
We
above the second plate so that the shaft engranecon selector drum. The correct way is that the mark on the plate matches the point marked on the shaft. In this position, the gearbox in neutral (check).
Note the green wire nut that we fitted earlier. It's an idea a friend gave me that as the devil knows more for being old than by the devil. Green (or red, or blue or whatever) means mounted nut but not tight. Much more useful than it seems.
two tabs are inserted with the spring inside, in the position shown. This is the correct position to neutral.
We put up the whole spring return selector shaft ...
... tightening screws.
Now is the time to "play" with the change, meshing gears up and down, seeing that everything works properly (we shift the lever while turning the main shaft going to the other hand). Used to regulate the position of the bottom plate with eccentric nut (marked with the green wire) to get smoother and more precise as possible of the change. When we find your ideal position, I squeezed the nut.
With all mounted and operating properly, do not forget to fold the tabs holding the nuts on the spring return selector shaft.
primary Transimisión
The primary transmission sprocket crank is attached to it by recess in the tapered shaft. There are no pins or grooves of any kind. To ensure proper anchorage, clean up well before the cone axis of the crankshaft and inside the pinion with a good degreaser (alcohol, for example).
We insert the pinion
...
... washer and nut.
Clutch
We put the clutch on the output shaft of the change, embedding its outdoor gear helical gear pinion shaft. This gear is what sets the primary drive motor.
We insert the cap on the shaft ...
... and the three keys to retention.
We put the whole clutch hub ...
... above the washer and retaining nut ...
... and the nut itself.
now placed three springs retention of records. These springs assure us that the club is always pressed against the bell in a sense, without giving undesirable rattling.
This is the set of primary drive and clutch fitted. You can see the two green wires in the nuts, which indicate that we lack tighten yet.
can use to tighten a euro cent coin (copper), a cloth or any soft material between the primary transmission gears. The idea of \u200b\u200bcloth given to me by Julian, and the currency of John Milan, Milan Workshop.
tightened with a wrench clutch nut. I said with a key, no pneumatic guns, which will thread (I say this from experience). It is a very narrow nut, and has few threads. But if you want to try, no problem. The shaft is much harder nut soft, and what will joderéis threads of the nut and not the shaft.
By the way, the thread is right (normal).
Do the same with the nut on the crankshaft output gear, changing the currency retention of transmission from the bottom up.
This is the currency after the operation. Another cost more to add to the restoration ... ,-D
pin We turned the nut holding the clutch.
left engine cover
Mount shaft seal clutch lever.
Insert the shaft in its housing (with the lips of oiled seal skins Non)
The interior insert the spacer washer ...
... Clutch pusher latch ...
... and washer and retaining nut.
now mounted pusher piston clutch, spread with a little fat to keep from falling off its seat when the lid upside down to revolve with the engine mount.
place the spider clutch putter, centering caps and a new cover gasket ...
... and put the lid on their site ...
... After assembling and tightening the screws.
speed selection
To begin to mount selector , we orientate the axis of the guide so that the offset of the tabs is in the position shown in the photo, that is, the tabs are slightly above the center of rotation.
We set up the panel assembly. Its function is to shrink the tabs inward as you turn the dial.
inserted the eccentric nut plate control (turning one or the other side of the nut relative position on the selector plate varies slightly) ...
... and its washer and retaining nut.
We
above the second plate so that the shaft engranecon selector drum. The correct way is that the mark on the plate matches the point marked on the shaft. In this position, the gearbox in neutral (check).
Note the green wire nut that we fitted earlier. It's an idea a friend gave me that as the devil knows more for being old than by the devil. Green (or red, or blue or whatever) means mounted nut but not tight. Much more useful than it seems.
two tabs are inserted with the spring inside, in the position shown. This is the correct position to neutral.
We put up the whole spring return selector shaft ...
... tightening screws.
Now is the time to "play" with the change, meshing gears up and down, seeing that everything works properly (we shift the lever while turning the main shaft going to the other hand). Used to regulate the position of the bottom plate with eccentric nut (marked with the green wire) to get smoother and more precise as possible of the change. When we find your ideal position, I squeezed the nut.
With all mounted and operating properly, do not forget to fold the tabs holding the nuts on the spring return selector shaft.
primary Transimisión
The primary transmission sprocket crank is attached to it by recess in the tapered shaft. There are no pins or grooves of any kind. To ensure proper anchorage, clean up well before the cone axis of the crankshaft and inside the pinion with a good degreaser (alcohol, for example).
We insert the pinion
...
... washer and nut.
Clutch
We put the clutch on the output shaft of the change, embedding its outdoor gear helical gear pinion shaft. This gear is what sets the primary drive motor.
We insert the cap on the shaft ...
... and the three keys to retention.
We put the whole clutch hub ...
... above the washer and retaining nut ...
... and the nut itself.
now placed three springs retention of records. These springs assure us that the club is always pressed against the bell in a sense, without giving undesirable rattling.
This is the set of primary drive and clutch fitted. You can see the two green wires in the nuts, which indicate that we lack tighten yet.
can use to tighten a euro cent coin (copper), a cloth or any soft material between the primary transmission gears. The idea of \u200b\u200bcloth given to me by Julian, and the currency of John Milan, Milan Workshop.
tightened with a wrench clutch nut. I said with a key, no pneumatic guns, which will thread (I say this from experience). It is a very narrow nut, and has few threads. But if you want to try, no problem. The shaft is much harder nut soft, and what will joderéis threads of the nut and not the shaft.
By the way, the thread is right (normal).
Do the same with the nut on the crankshaft output gear, changing the currency retention of transmission from the bottom up.
This is the currency after the operation. Another cost more to add to the restoration ... ,-D
pin We turned the nut holding the clutch.
left engine cover
Mount shaft seal clutch lever.
Insert the shaft in its housing (with the lips of oiled seal skins Non)
The interior insert the spacer washer ...
... Clutch pusher latch ...
... and washer and retaining nut.
now mounted pusher piston clutch, spread with a little fat to keep from falling off its seat when the lid upside down to revolve with the engine mount.
place the spider clutch putter, centering caps and a new cover gasket ...
... and put the lid on their site ...
... After assembling and tightening the screws.
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